Bernina Express Travel Guide

What is the Bernina Express?

The Bernina Express is a panoramic train operated by the Rhaetian Railway (RhB) that crosses the Alps between Switzerland and Italy without a rack-and-pinion system — an engineering feat that earned it UNESCO World Heritage status in 2008, together with the Albula line.

The route connects Chur or St. Moritz in Switzerland with Tirano in northern Italy via the Bernina Pass (2,253 m). The full journey from Chur takes about 4.5 hours; from St. Moritz, around 4 hours. Along the way the train descends nearly 2,000 meters in altitude, passing from a winter alpine landscape into the lush valleys of the Valtellina.

The Route, Section by Section

The journey unfolds in two distinct phases, each with its own character.

Chur or St. Moritz → Ospizio Bernina (Ascent)

If starting from Chur, the train first follows the Albula line through dramatic gorges and spiral tunnels before reaching St. Moritz. From St. Moritz, the Bernina section begins. The train climbs steadily through the Upper Engadine valley, passing lakes like Lej da Champfèr and the Lej Nair, before reaching the glacier landscape near Pontresina. Above Pontresina, the white expanse of the Morteratsch Glacier appears to the right — one of the most striking views of the journey. The train continues to Alp Grüm (2,091 m), where it pauses briefly and passengers often step out to take in the view over the Palü Glacier.

Ospizio Bernina → Tirano (Descent)

After Ospizio Bernina, the highest point, the landscape begins a dramatic shift. The train descends through rocky highland terrain toward Poschiavo, a charming Italian-speaking Swiss village. South of Poschiavo, the route's most celebrated engineering landmark appears: the Brusio Spiral Viaduct, a circular open viaduct that loops 360° to lose altitude — one of the most photographed railway structures in the world. From there the scenery transforms rapidly into vineyards and Mediterranean vegetation as the train crosses into Italy and arrives at Tirano.

Key Stops Along the Way

• St. Moritz — The famous resort town at 1,822 m, starting point of the Bernina section. Worth a visit for the lake and town centre.
• Pontresina — Gateway to Morteratsch Glacier and Diavolezza cable car. Consider stopping if you want a glacier walk.
• Alp Grüm — A tiny, car-free station at 2,091 m with a terrace restaurant and unobstructed glacier views. Trains stop here for a few minutes.
• Ospizio Bernina — The highest station on the line (2,253 m). The Lago Bianco reservoir here is photographically stunning, especially in summer when it's a deep turquoise.
• Poschiavo — A quiet Italian-Swiss town, worth a stop for lunch if you're doing the journey over two days.
• Tirano — The Italian endpoint. The historic centre and the Basilica di Madonna di Tirano are right next to the station.

Bernina Express Route Map & Elevation Profile

The Bernina Express descends nearly 1,800 metres from its highest point to Tirano — one of the steepest non-rack railway descents in the world. The chart below shows the full elevation profile from St. Moritz to Tirano with all key stops.

Which Side to Sit On

For the St. Moritz → Tirano direction:

• Right side (window seat A): Better views of Morteratsch Glacier and the approach to Alp Grüm.
• Left side (window seat D): Better for Lago Bianco and the Brusio Spiral Viaduct approach.

In practice, both sides offer outstanding scenery. The panoramic roof windows of the dedicated Bernina Express cars mean you can see upward too, which makes the difference between sides less critical than on other trains.

Best Time to Travel

The Bernina Express runs year-round, but each season has a different character:

• Summer (June–September): Glaciers are most visible, alpine flowers in bloom, Lago Bianco is turquoise. Busiest season — book seats well in advance.
• Autumn (October–November): Fewer crowds, golden larches on the slopes above Pontresina, clear mountain air.
• Winter (December–March): The route transforms into a snow-covered landscape. A special Winter Bernina Express runs on certain dates with themed experiences. Some sections can be slower due to weather conditions.
• Spring (April–May): Snow still present at altitude, valleys turning green. A quieter period with good availability.

Practical Information

Tickets & Reservations

The Bernina Express panoramic cars require a mandatory seat reservation (CHF 14–25 depending on season) in addition to a valid rail ticket. If you hold a Swiss Travel Pass, it covers the base fare — you still need to add a seat reservation, which must be arranged through whoever issued your pass or at a Swiss train station.

Alternatively, the same scenic route can be travelled on regular regional trains (IR/RE services) without a reservation, though these use standard cars without panoramic windows.

Getting to the Starting Points

• St. Moritz — Reachable from Zurich via the Albula line through Chur (about 3.5 h total). The Glacier Express also arrives here from Zermatt.
• Chur — Direct IC trains from Zurich (about 1 h 10 min) and Basel (about 1 h 50 min).
• Tirano — If doing the journey one-way south to north, Tirano is reachable by Trenord regional trains from Milan Centrale (about 2.5 h).

One Way or Return?

Most travellers do the route one-way and return by a different means (bus or train via Lugano and the Gotthard). Doing it return on the same day is possible but makes for a long day (roughly 8 hours on the train). A popular combination is to travel one-way and spend a night in Poschiavo or Tirano before returning.

Frequently Asked Questions

ℹ️ Several of the answers below depend on your specific ticket or tour package. Always check the conditions of your booking before travelling.